story

LUKE

SWANSON

“My faith has grown in terms of the contentment I have outside of surfing. My fulfillment doesn’t depend on my success in surfing, even though I put so much into it. When you’re trusting in God, the outcome no longer matters; what matters more is the plan God has for your life.”

Can you tell us a bit about where you’re from and where you grew up?

I grew up in a town in the centre of Oahu called Mililani. Growing up in Mililiani, there wasn’t much surfing or surf culture. I grew up playing a lot of soccer because my dad was a professional soccer player. When I was about seven or eight years old, we decided as a family to move to the North Shore. We spent so much time at the beach that my parents felt like it was a disservice to not move closer to the beach! Since then I’ve lived on the North Shore, surfing the Seven Mile miracle.

Where would you say your local surf spot is?

I’ve probably surfed Rocky Point the most but I’d like to say that my home break is Pipe because whenever it’s surfable I like to be out there.

What made you want to be a pro surfer?

I think that I was so into surfing when I was little that it was a gradual transition. Growing up, I never did anything that I didn’t want to be really good at. I just had that competitive nature in that I didn’t want to do something unless I could be better than everyone else. Surfing was definitely it for me.

I was never the best but when I was 15 or 16, I decided that I had a good shot and that I was gonna go for it. Even if I graduated high school, I planned to stick with it and not go to a physical college which was the alternative. It was around that age that I decided to really go for it professionally.

Was there a specific moment or comp that made you want to go pro?

I got sponsored by Rip Curl and signed a contract that locked me in until I was close to graduating high school. I figured I’ll see where I’m at by the end of the contract. It felt a lot more legit when they wanted to resign towards the end of that contract.

I wanted to be really realistic about it: if I wasn’t going to be able to make money, I might’ve found something else that I really enjoy. But my sponsorship with Ripcurl actually allowed me to travel and compete which confirmed it for me.

What has been your biggest competitive achievement to date?

I’d probably say winning the ISA championships last year in El Salvador. Also, in 2021 Stab Magazine did a poll where they asked everyone who their favourite junior surfers are and John Florence (before I knew him well) voted me as the best Junior. That gave me a lot of confidence and helped me in a lot of different ways. That felt like a big event win. After a lot of hard work and dedication, having someone that has been there and made it say “this kid is doing the right thing” felt like a huge achievement.

How did you come to know and follow Jesus?

I grew up in a Christian home. Both my parents have been faithfully serving God since they were young.

I first committed my life to God when I was seven or eight years old. Even at a young age I understood that my sin separated me from God, and realised that I wanted to have a relationship with God and so I gave my life to Christ.

At that point I hadn’t experienced a lot of the things that I’ve experienced now. Over the past 10 years I’ve faced a lot of different trials. There have been a lot of things wanting to pull me away from my relationship with God, and I’ve grown a lot through them.

The decision that I made when I was young has been reinforced and upheld as I’ve gotten older. 

I’ve just been so blessed to know God; read His Word, to be in His Word and to follow His will for me.

You’re pretty open about your faith online. Have you noticed that you influence people around you in any way?

I think my social media influence has probably encouraged people, more than anything. My goal with it is to simply live out my faith and be a witness without holding back. Social media is a huge opportunity to do that, as a surfer with the following that I have. 

I’ve heard from people that they’ve been encouraged and inspired to see it which has been a big confidence booster for me.

I’d like believers and nonbelievers alike to ask questions and come to an answer about their faith through it. If God can use me in that way to bring people to Him and honour Him, that would be amazing.

Have you received any negative pushback with regards to your open stance about your faith?

Nothing compared to the persecution the first followers of Christ experienced! It’s mostly just been people I’ve met in person that will tease me and joke about it in a way that can be confusing.

I don’t feel too offended. If anything, it means that they’ve felt convicted by something I’ve said.

I’m sure a lot of people have unfollowed me and decided not to watch my surfing but for the most part people accept my faith & are encouraged by it, so the good outweighs the bad.

Has there been a time in your life when you’ve really experienced the faithfulness of God?

As a competitive surfer that is tested all the time, I get to experience God’s faithfulness a lot. You pour so much into trying to be the best, and then you’re tested on it in every event. 

When you fall short, and also when you win, you’re left striving and searching for something…that God shaped hole in our lives. God offers purpose that we can’t get from surfing or from any other achievements. Every single time that I go out, whether it’s for an event or to win someone’s approval (like trying to get a sponsorship) I’m constantly tested with regards to where I’m putting my faith and basing my identity. 

I’ve chosen to follow God. I’ve chosen to listen to what He has to say about his plans for me, and what he has said about my identity. It changes the way I think about everything and it influences the way I do everything.

“I’ve chosen to follow God. I’ve chosen to listen to what He has to say about his plans for me, and what he has said about my identity. It changes the way I think about everything and it influences the way I do everything.”

Whether I’m losing or winning, I have this steady peace that surpasses understanding. God has been so faithful to me in that way, because I know that his faithfulness doesn’t depend on my results.

My faith has really grown in the contentment and purpose that I’ve found outside of my surfing. The more I look for that, the more satisfied I feel because I’m not chasing results but rather trusting in God and seeing his plan play out in my life.

When you’re passionate about something it can be challenging to keep God in the centre of your life.

Yup. Even as a Christian it’s easy to base your happiness around your wins. It’s challenging to keep the eternal perspective in mind. I’ve had to learn to trust God, even when it doesn’t make sense.

Is there a verse that you live by?

Proverbs 16:3… “Commit to the Lord whatever you do, and he will establish your plans.” It’s such a simple verse but it speaks volumes to the reality that we live as Christians. It means that I could be bitten by a shark tomorrow, or I go on to be second place year after year after year or maybe I become World Champion…but when you put your faith in God’s plan for you, you’re happy with whatever happens because you know He’s in control and you’re following His plan. As long as you’re using every moment to glorify Him and to obey His commands, you can feel the confidence of being established in His plans.

Is there a person, in or outside of the surf industry, that’s been an inspiration to you?

I would say Tim Tebow, he’s a retired football player. He was the best rated quarterback coming out of college and was expected to go on to be an NFL all star. He just has an amazing testimony of not making it as far as he thought he would, but trusting in God’s faithfulness and plans for his life. He now has so many different ministries and outreaches and is doing incredible things for someone coming from the world of sports.

If you could leave a grom wanting to be a pro surfer with a word of wisdom, what would that be?

I think just that it’s really important to understand your identity and God’s sovereignty before you pursue a career in surfing. Search your heart, figure out what it is that you’re striving after and then commit it to the Lord. Give it all you’ve got and honour God with it!