story

“The verse from the Bible that speaks to me, especially during my surfing experiences, is Matthew 8:27, “Even the wind and the waves obey Him.” This verse resonates deeply with me because it serves as a metaphor for life itself. Just as the ocean can be wild and unpredictable, so can life, especially when you’re competing and facing various challenges. This verse reminds me of the power and authority of God over all things, even the seemingly uncontrollable forces of nature.”

MATTHEW 8:27

CJ, did you grow up in A Christian family?

I grew up in a Catholic family. It was kind of, you know, like a barter system with God. When I went to church, I would sit in the pews and be like, “Hey God, if you let me win this contest, then I’ll be good.” I’m not sure if that’s normal for kids, but it seemed to work or make sense when you’re young and you want things like a new surfboard. That was my early relationship with God.

The good news is that as I started talking to my parents and opening up, the barter system faded as I entered my early twenties. Obviously, there’s no real relationship in bargaining—asking for something in return for doing something else removes the essence of a loving relationship. Then, we began having Bible studies at our house. I had a good friend who was into it. We would go on retreats, and every time I came home, I could sense something changing. I also had surfer friends in North Carolina who were finding salvation.

When I was around 22, I got involved with Calvary Chapel. I wanted to go and give it a try, you know, as more of an outward sign. Back when I was Catholic, I had gone through all those rituals like communion and reconciliation, but they didn’t really feel deeply relational either. Anyway, in my early twenties, I found salvation, and it hasn’t been a smooth journey from there.

I mean, that’s kind of the essence of my story—finding salvation. I must have done it a hundred times, to the point where I’m that guy who responds every time there’s an opportunity, whether it’s on the radio or anywhere else, I just say it again.

At what moment was it the turning point for you to fully surrender to Him?

For me, I think the real journey started when I began to pursue my goals and grappled with the feeling of loneliness. It wasn’t a situation where I hit rock bottom or was partying too hard. None of those cliches applied. It was more about achieving my dreams and then sensing a sort of emptiness. It felt lonely, and I desired something more. I guess that was the turning point, that was the feeling and realization I had…

Understanding that life is a journey marked by different seasons. We’re all trying to make sense of things, and I see that happening every day. In fact, it’s become even more challenging due to the abundance of information. Finding truth nowadays is so difficult.

In a world of misinformation & relative truth, how do you stay steadfast in God?

Honestly, I often find myself wondering how people manage. I observe others and think, “How do they navigate life? What principles do they stand on?” For me, having the Bible and Jesus Christ in my life provides guidance and purpose. I’m genuinely amazed at those who seem to handle life without them. It’s like they possess a strength I can’t fathom.

That’s typically my reaction when I encounter this topic. I’m not an intense Bible enthusiast who pushes beliefs onto others. I believe in the power of gradual influence and showing love to people. That approach has been consistent throughout my career.

Authenticity… What does it mean to you?

I remember back in my youth, writing articles for surf magazines. Sometimes I felt like I wasn’t taken seriously, but I understood that’s just how life is, and the same idea is present in God’s word. The beauty is that if you stay true to yourself and embrace your authenticity as God designed you, people will eventually recognize and appreciate that. Consistency matters, and so maintaining your core identity over the years holds great value, especially in an era where many seem to change direction easily.

Being in this world means experiencing some intense heartbreaks. Life will inevitably bring moments of pain and challenge. If even Jesus faced trials in the desert before beginning his mission, it’s a reminder that adversity is part of our human journey.

Throughout life, we encounter seasons, and each one tends to have its own profound moments of despair. There are times when we feel overwhelmed and think, “God, I can’t handle this. I don’t have the answers.” In those moments, we realize our need for a higher power.

This is exactly how it’s designed to be. We’re not meant to navigate life without God. Understanding this, it’s natural for us to face low points where we have to turn to Him. We can’t truly make life work on our own, despite some people seemingly constructing an impressive facade in their initial stages.

How do you manage being on tour and staying true to your faith amidst the countercultural influences?

To me, it’s not about being on tour or in any particular place; the challenges are similar everywhere. The key lies in what you choose to focus on and internalize. Your environment might change, but the potential stumbling blocks remain consistent. It’s about what you decide to feed your mind and heart with.

I personally never saw a major distinction. Whether waking up in South Africa to go surfing or waking up in Florida for the same, the challenges were comparable. It’s a matter of what you allow to shape your thoughts. Forgiveness and understanding can transcend any situation.

I didn’t really complicate things when I was on the road. I remained true to who I am, embracing how God made me. My approach was simple—show love to people and use my gifts as I understood how God intended. There might be this stereotype of needing to present a certain image, but I’ve always been myself. I found myself drawn to those individuals who were authentic and real, much like in any other context in life. There are characters everywhere, but I naturally gravitated towards people who were genuine and enjoyed their company.

What triggered a change for me was the realization that even when I got what I wanted, it didn’t fill the emptiness I felt. Bartering with God, asking for things in exchange for something else, didn’t lead to the fulfillment I sought. Achieving my goals in surfing, which I thought would bring happiness, turned out to be lonely and unfulfilling. This recognition led me to question whether I was approaching life the right way. It was a combination of factors that influenced this feeling. The loneliness that accompanied achieving my aspirations played a significant role. Back then, my focus was on surfing, and I was accomplishing those goals, but a void remained. I began to question what was missing. That’s when I realized that what I lacked was a relationship with the Creator. If He was the one behind all of this existence, then that was what I was missing.

How do you stay centred & grounded in God?

Living life with God at the center is a continuous journey of self-discovery and alignment. This is how I try to stay oriented and centered…

  1. Listening to God: One of the primary ways to stay centered is by continuously listening to what God says about us. God’s perspective is essential because it’s often very different from how we perceive ourselves. Recognizing ourselves as God’s beloved sons and daughters, His chosen ones, can counteract the negative self-talk that many of us struggle with.
  2. Seeking Guidance for Each Season: I regularly ask God about the season of life I’m in and how to navigate it according to His plan. Recognizing the unique aspects of each season helps me stay aligned with His purpose.
  3. Enjoying Everyday Blessings: I find joy in everyday activities and blessings that God has created for us to enjoy. While these may seem simple, they help maintain a sense of gratitude and contentment.
  4. Self-Reflection and Heart Check: I perform a daily self-check. I examine my heart to see what emotions and attitudes are emerging. This helps identify areas where I may need God’s intervention or where I need to adjust my actions.
  5. Community and Fellowship: Engaging in fellowship with friends, sharing meals, and being part of a church community is essential. These connections provide support, encouragement, and opportunities to grow spiritually.
  6. Spiritual Practices: Practices like reading the Bible, prayer, fasting, and attending church services can indeed serve as catalysts for deepening one’s faith. They help reinforce the connection with God and provide a framework for spiritual growth.

Ultimately, the combination of these practices helps me maintain my orientation and alignment with God in various seasons of life. They serve as touchpoints for self-assessment and growth, reinforcing the truth of God’s love and purpose in my life. I’m truly fortunate to have a strong fellowship with friends and family. Breaking bread together, sharing meals, and spending quality time has become a foundational aspect of my life. Reading the Bible and meditating on God’s word are essential daily rituals that ground me in my faith.

How do you best communicate with the Lord?

What resonates with me most in this phase of life is worship music. Mornings are a crucial time for me to engage with this form of worship. Honestly, when I look within, I recognize that my default nature tends to be far from what I aspire to be. Left to my own devices, I can easily become ornery, argumentative, and cynical. That’s not the person I want to be.

Worship music lifts me above those tendencies. It’s as if I shed my own limitations and negativity and immerse myself in the beauty of God’s presence. It helps me transcend my defaults and redirect my focus towards a more aligned and positive path.

Reflecting on this journey, I acknowledge that I’ve entered a season where I’m more established as a dad. It’s taken time to reach this point, where I feel God has guided me towards a place of greater understanding and responsibility. But it hasn’t been an easy journey.

Surfing, for instance, can set you up for an illusion. It’s a season when you’re lauded, your skills shine, and everyone hails your achievements. But then life leads you into a different phase, where you realize you’re not as proficient as you once believed. It’s in these moments of humility that God reminds me of His grace and the importance of staying connected to Him. In the end, it’s this journey, with its ups and downs, that truly shapes who I am.

Where do you see the Lord leading you?

As I look forward, my aspiration is to remain active and healthy, capable of continuing to serve and engage in life. But for now, my primary focus remains on being the best husband and father I can be. Each day is an opportunity to learn, grow, and deepen my understanding of the roles the Lord has entrusted to me.

if you could offer three pieces of advice to your younger self, what would they would be?
  1. Be Kind to Yourself: The first piece of advice would be not to beat myself up and not to be so hard on myself. It’s easy to fall into the trap of self-criticism and perfectionism, but it’s essential to remember that we are all human, and making mistakes and facing challenges is a natural part of life.
  2. Embrace the Long Game: In a world driven by technology and a desire for quick results, it’s crucial to remind myself that many aspects of life are still part of the long game. Things often don’t happen overnight, and measuring progress can be difficult until you’ve had the perspective of several years. Patience and persistence are key.
  3. Find Joy in the Journey: The third piece of advice would be to find joy in the journey. For those who are ambitious and driven, it’s easy to become so focused on achieving goals that the process becomes joyless. It’s essential to remember that life is about more than accomplishments; it’s about the experiences, the people you meet, and the moments you savor along the way. Being too hard on oneself can sap the joy out of life’s achievements.

These three pieces of advice reflect the importance of self-compassion, patience, and enjoying the present moment. Life is a journey, and it’s essential to navigate it with a balanced perspective, embracing both the challenges and the joys it brings.

A verse from the New Testament that resonated with you during your surfing career?

The verse from the Bible that speaks to me, especially during my surfing experiences, is Matthew 8:27, “Even the wind and the waves obey Him.” This verse resonates deeply with me because it serves as a metaphor for life itself. Just as the ocean can be wild and unpredictable, so can life, especially when you’re competing and facing various challenges. This verse reminds me of the power and authority of God over all things, even the seemingly uncontrollable forces of nature.

In my current season of life, I’ve found comfort and strength in the verse from Hebrews 13:8 that states, “Jesus is the same yesterday, today, and forever.” In a world filled with constant change and instability, this verse serves as an anchor and a reminder that no matter how much the world may shift, Jesus and God the Father remain steadfast and unchanging. They have witnessed it all, from the beginning of time to the present, and their consistency provides a sense of security and peace amidst life’s uncertainties.

These verses serve as sources of inspiration and guidance, reminding me of the enduring presence and power of God, both in the natural world and in the ever-changing seasons of life.